A RETURN TO YELLOWSTONE AND GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARKS

 Submitted by Ronnie Ryne and Bob Smith

(What an incredible adventure! Join Ronnie and Bob as they share their adventure of a lifetime with us.)

JULY 2, TO JULY 16, 2021

When planning for this return trip we naturally used our experience from the September 2019 trip. In the first trip we realized that we “flew by the seat of our pants” much of the time. Although we saw many wonderful things we knew we needed to be more deliberate in our planning for this return trip. We read books, studied videos, reviewed web sites and spoke with friends who had made trips to these two Parks. We analyzed trip expenses and determined that since we would have the time it would be to our advantage to travel by Bob’s van. This would provided flexibility and allow us to carry all the equipment we could possibly need. Some of the books we read were:

Dirt Cheap Photo Guide to the Teton National Park by Jeff Crow (2011).

50 Wildlife Hotspots: Grand Teton National Park and Surrounding Communities by Moose Henderson (2018).

Photo Secrets: Yellowstone National Park. Where to Take Pictures by Andrew Hudson (2020).

Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks by Kurt F. Johnson (2013).

Our reading, review and planning for each day’s photo outings often continued right up to the day’s outings. We were flexible so we could take advantage of changing conditions.

After determining we could spend 12 days within the Parks we next ascertained where we wanted to stay and for how long at each destination. We determined to stay at the following locations:

Jackson, Wyoming for 4 nights; Gardiner, Montana for 3 nights; Cooke City, Montana for 3 nights and West Yellowstone, Montana for 2 nights. We also determined that we would have to spend 1 night on the road going and 2 nights returning to Bowling Green.

Another important thing to determine was the exact time of sunrise and sunset for each of the locations where we would be staying. To gain the most from our trip we committed to rising early each day in order to take advantage of the early morning sun and have greater opportunity to observe the wildlife as they were out early foraging for food. Recognizing the need for rest we decided that we would return to our motel for periods of afternoon rest as needed. That would also allow us to be fresh as we went out in the late afternoon and until sunset for additional photo opportunities.

We arrived in Jackson, Wyoming the afternoon of July 3^rd. Rising early on July 4^th we proceeded to the locations where others had observed Moose and Bears. We quickly realized that due to the July 4^th date, these areas had a heavy concentration of Wildlife Guide traffic as well as persons like us. We also noted that the Parks Service had closed off some of the pull-off points and since you could not stop in the road there was reduced opportunity to observe for wildlife. Particularly disappointing was the fact that Pilgrims Creek Road was totally blocked off. That is the habitat where the famous Momma Grizzly #399 and her 4 cubs were known to be. As disappointing as this was we certainly understood the need to avoid distressing the wildlife. We made “lemonade out of lemons” and shifted our focus to some of the areas beautiful landscape scenes.

Our first stop was Schabacher Landing for a sunrise shot. We returned to the location of our 2019 photo but now knowing the “money shot” was perhaps another 200 yards further along the Creek to a Beaver Pond we proceeded to that location. We arrived early enough to capture a nice shot of the Teton Mountains reflected in the pond as the sun lit up the mountains. This is a fabulous location. We also shot other locations along the creek as well as several birds and small mammals.

We continued driving through the area, using the information we had gained to take us off the beaten paths to some of the more remote and seldom seen locations. We traveled for miles and miles along very rocky, dirt and gravel roads (All Wheel Drive recommended) that led to a location overlooking the entire Jackson Hole valley. We captured some nice vistas but saw no wildlife along this route. We did note a lot of wildflowers as we rode the area. Returning to the main road we obtained some nice photos of the iconic rail fencing and herds of horses and some riders with the Teton Mountains in the background.

Still early, we drove to Oxbow Bend on the Snake River. This is one of the most photographed locations in the Tetons and it did not disappoint. From there we drove up to Two Ocean Lake, hoping to spot some Moose without any success. This lake is unique in that it empties both to the West and to the East, hence its name. While in the area we stopped to visit the Cunningham Historic Cabin and were later to visit the rustic remains of Shane Cabin the scene of the 1953 movie “Shane”. Nice foregrounds to the Teton Mountains.  Had lunch in the car and proceeded to the Gros Ventre Campground and Overlooks in search of Moose; again without success. Proceeded East to the small community of Kelly and then further east along the Gros Ventre Road into the Bridger-Teton National Forest and beyond past Atherton Creek where we discovered the beautiful Lower Slide Lake located in a high mountain valley. Still driving on unpaved roads we came upon a seldom viewed scene of the Red Hills. 

These are strikingly beautiful tall hills of red stone and soil. Located in this valley is the Red Hills Ranch which has the most beautiful herd of horses grazing in lush green pastures. A beautiful sight indeed. Retracing our drive we returned to our motel with day 1 beneath our belts.

On July 5^th we again rose early to check out the Gros Ventre River Overlooks and surrounding area for Moose and other wildlife. We returned to Kelly and travelled north to Antelope Flats Rd. We observed and photographed a nice Red Deer that almost looked in our car window and a small herd of Pronghorns. 

We searched along the creek beds and willow trees for Moose without sighting any.  We swung by the Mormon Row area to check out the two Moulton Bans before returning to Highway 89 and the Teton NP. We proceeded back to the Oxbow Bend area to see what we might find and sighted our first Moose, a cow at a distance of about 600 yards. Got a “proof” photo and resumed our search.

Taking the Teton Park Road we crossed the Jackson Lake Dam and then drove up the Signal Mountain Road to the Peak of Signal Mountain, a height of 7800 feet. On this road we shot a very large Bull Elk and a number of very beautiful landscape scenes. 

The wildflowers were in abundance. Continuing along Teton Park Road we passed String Lake and walked a path along Jenny Lake hoping to get a great view of the Teton Mountains. We stopped to view the Cathedral Mountains Group, as it is known. This is also the location of the Teton Fault which one can actually see. Very unusual. Our last stop in this area was at the Chapel of the Transfiguration, which is an active Episcopal Church.  

You are allowed to enter the Chapel which has a large glass window looking out to the Teton Mountains. A beautiful scene for sure. We returned to this location the next day to shoot it again. Later that afternoon we photographed Trumpeter Swans in a pond just north of Jackson; shot other birds and a several Ground Hogs. We closed the day with a sunset shot as it dipped behind the Teton Mountain Range.

July 6^th found us up early with cameras and tripods set and waiting for the sun to rise at the John Moulton barn. This is one of the 3 most photographed scenes in the GTNP and the sunrise shot is the shot to get.  Only one person was there when we arrived so we were able to get the spot we have scouted out earlier. As the sun began to light up the mountains it also colored the sky in a beautiful array of colors. 

After completing our shoot at this location we decided to leave the Teton NP and by way of Moran, cross the 10,000 foot high Togwatee Pass towards Dubois, Wy. We had also received information that Grizzly Bears were reported along the Togwatee Pass. We did not see any bears so continued pass Dubois to the Whiskey Mountain Bighorn Sheep Preserve. Unfortunately the Sheep had moved to higher elevations due to the heat. We photographed some unusual Red Mountains and returned to Jackson by way of the Togwatee Pass, still seeing no Bears.

At 10:15 PM we returned to the Moulton Barn to set up for a nighttime shoot of the Milky Way. 

After several instances of another photographer doing some Light Painting on the side of the barn and an amorous young couple with a floodlight climbing onto the roof of the barn we were finally able to get a nice shot of the Milky Way directly over the Barn at 3:15 AM.

Leaving Jackson on the 7^th; we headed north to Gardiner, Montana. In route we photographed the always beautiful Lewis Falls and several views of Lewis and Madison Rivers. 

We drove east to the headwaters of the Yellowstone River. Along the route we photographed a nice Mule Deer, a magnificent Bull Elk, a single Bighorn Sheep high up on a cliff and several Mountain Goats but no Bears or Bull Moose.

On July 8^th we again got a very early start in hopes of finding the ever elusive wildlife. We headed east from Mammoth Hot Springs, photographed the wonderful Undine Falls and drove the 6 mile Blacktail Plateau which was reported to be a bear habitat. 

The hillside were covered in a variety of wildflowers which were a photographers delight however, we failed to see any bears. Photographed some of the small mammals in the area and returned to the main road. Pulling into the Petrified Tree pull off we were rewarded by seeing a beautiful Black Bear foraging among the wildflowers and tree stumps. 

We were able to photograph him for some time.

We travelled into Lamar Valley and in the vicinity of Soda Butte we observed another Black Bear with a cub, however, the distance was extreme. Another Black Bear with 2 cubs was observed on the south side of the Floating Pond, again at a fairly long distance. Although seeing only one bear close enough for a good shot we were encouraged by sighting a number of them. We next travelled to the Hitching Post Pull Off in Lamar Valley in order to photograph the most unusual Moose Head Tree formation 

that juts out from the top of a very large rock formation. It is amazing how the trees resemble a Moose Head. It was getting late in the afternoon so we went to the east end of Lamar Valley to the Soda Butte area in search of wolves. We did not see any but learned from a group of “Wolf Watchers” that the den for the Junction Butte Wolf pack was at this location. It was 1,770 yards away from the observation site. There were reported to be 15, mostly black wolves in the pack, led by a gray female.

July 9^th was to be our big day. We had secured the services of Kate Ochsman, a guide from the Yellowstone Wild Agency. Kate is a Wildlife Photographer and an experienced guide. We had high hopes of seeing our first Grizzly bear and by mutual consent we were going to begin the day by travelling to Hayden Valley where Kate had spotted Grizzles before. This area had one feature that makes it more desirable than Lamar Valley. It is more narrow, therefore, the opportunity to see the animals a little closer to you is improved. Kate had also spotted Grizzly’s southeast of Hayden Valley in the area of Fishing Bridge and Sedge Bay, a part of Yellowstone Lake.

Leaving the Motel at 5:15 AM we travelled south on Highway 89 toward Norris. On the way we photographed some interesting Bison who, in the early morning light, appeared to have steam pouring off of their back. 

We also observed a very unique faceoff between two young Bull Elks. They were pawing the ground, running at each other, heads down and then rearing up on their back legs and hitting at each other with their front legs. With the early morning sun on them it was a very nice photo opportunity. In the same area we stopped to photograph a large Bull Elk and while doing so observed a huge Bull Bison

 pawing the ground and bellowing. A second large Bull was nearby also bellowing. While this was occurring we heard more bellowing coming from the nearby woods and out came another Bull Bison running and making threatening noises. He stopped at a small pine tree and began to tear it apart, all the time bellowing and trying to intimidate the other two animals.

Leaving these animals to their adventures we continued south into Hayden Valley again observing two Bull Bison in a head to head struggle. One animal took the other to the ground and then actually using its horns, lifted the other animal up and dropped it to the ground. In this area we also observed a pair of beautiful American White Pelicans. They put on quite a show...Saw Muskrats and a few different birds in a marshy area. We continued south with the Yellowstone River on our east side. We stopped to observe a large Community of nesting Great Blue Herons They have very large nests and there were 6-8 separate nests in very close proximity to each other.

Kate received information that a Grizzly with cub had been spotted near the Lake Butte Overlook south of Fishing Bridge. We went to that location and were told by those there that we missed the bear by about 15 minutes. We searched the meadows, tree lines and ponds in the area without spotting the bear. We then went to the Lake Butte Overlook and remained there scoping the area out. We did not see the Grizzly but saw our first Marmot, 

a very cute and interesting animal and also photographed a beautiful Violet Green Swallow.  We spotted a very nice Mule Deer with Velvet antlers and another large Bull Elk. Ronnie spotted and photographed a nice Red Tail Hawk and we both photographed an Eagle in Flight. Also spotted an Eagle as it landed to consume a fish it had caught in Yellowstone Lake. We had a picnic lunch on the Shore of Yellowstone Lake and checked the area for Grizzly’s one more time before heading back north to Gardiner. In route we took a few landscape photos but saw no other wildlife of note. We were very impressed to see how the wildlife of Yellowstone interacted with the extreme climate and terrain. Arrived back at the motel at 2:30 and after a period of rest headed out again for some evening shots.

We photographed the Rustic Falls and then drove south to the area of the Obsidian Cliffs where a Grizzly by that name is known to hang out. No luck with the Grizzly but we did shoot a nice Sandhill Crane with a Small Colt as it is called. That was the end of a long day. We saw some very interesting sights but did not have the success, using the guide that we would have liked.

Getting a good night’s sleep we left Gardiner at 9:40 AM and began Day 7 by heading toward Cooke City our next destination. Entering Lamar Valley, we shot a nice view of the Yellowstone River where it is joined by the Lamar River. We stopped at the Floating Pond and took photos of several different water birds and had our first sighting of a beautiful Yellow-headed Blackbird.  

We stopped at the Hitching Post Pull Off to again photograph the Moose head Tree (the day was clear and we hoped for a better exposure). We drove the entire Lamar Valley without seeing any wildlife of note and continued to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone NP. Having decided to drive on up to Beartooth Pass we left the NP and passing through Silver Gate and Cooke City Montana we heading up the Bear Tooth Highway. Observed and photographed the Crazy Creek Cascades and Lake Creek Falls. Searched for wildlife but failed to see any. In route to the summit of Beartooth Pass we observed a number of nice Alpine Lakes, patches of snow and hillsides covered with beautiful wild flowers.

Arriving at the summit of the Pass (elevation 10,947 feet) we began a search of a large pile of rocks, perhaps 1,000 feet high, where the very elusive Picas were know to hide out as well as the Red-breasted Marmots. The Pica is a small, rabbit like animal although with shorter ears. Climbing about ¼ the way up we sat down and began scoping out the summit of the rock pile. We observed the Marmot and a colorful Ground Squirrel but no Picas. Deciding to climb closer to the summit, Bob stepped on a loose rock and fell backwards onto the rocks. Fortunately his butt landed on the only flat rock in the area so he escaped what could have been serious injury. Neither Bob nor his two cameras were damaged. Ronnie did have to come and assist in getting Bob up from the rocks where he had fallen. 

Leaving the summit, we photographed a few landscape scenes before heading to the Top of The World Store to check out their merchandise. In retrospect, we should have continued on down the eastern side of Beartooth Pass to search for Big Horn Sheep known to be in that area. Returning to Cooke City we spotted the interesting Pilot and Index Mountain Peaks. We decided to return in the morning to photograph them.

On Day 8, we left the motel at 4:50 AM as we planned to hike up to Trout Lake (Yellowstone NP) and be there by sunrise. In route to the Lake we spotted a Fox which we were able to photograph. The trail up to Trout Lake is “only” .6 of a mile but it is a very difficult hike. Very steep, rocky, with large tree roots and sometimes soft sandy soil which makes for slippery conditions. On the way up we spotted a Black Bear with a cub. She was about 75 yards away. She gave us a look over, took a few steps in our direction, rose up a little to get a better look and then moved off away from us. We were able to get a photo of the Bear but not a good one. ISO above 51,000.  Both of us had Bear Spray but were grateful we did not have to use it.

Continuing on to Trout Lake, we passed over a small dam, about 12 feet wide. The route over the dam was a one by twelve inch board across the top of the dam. We found the location we were looking for and set up tripods to await the sunrise. There was a light breeze but it was enough to spoil the reflection we were looking for. Leaving that location we returned across the Dam and just sat on a log to enjoy the view of this wonderful place. While doing that we noticed the breeze suddenly stopped and we saw the reflection on the Lake surface we were looking for. Quickly setting up our tripod we were able to get some nice images.

Returning to Lamar Valley, we spotted what we, and others, thought was a Gray Wolf but later determined was an older Coyote. The day before in the late afternoon we had observed a large heard of Bison moving across the road heading up into the hills and this morning we observed that same heard moving back down from the hills into the Valley. An interesting and amazing sight. We decided to return to Pilot and Index Peak while we still had the morning sun and get those shots. Following that we returned to the motel for a period of rest.

We left the motel at 5:20 to scout out the area near Silver Gate where we were told Moose had been seen. None were spotted but we were told they are in the area almost every morning so we will return at 6 AM. We reentered the Park and returned to Slough Creek Campground area to see the status of the Wolf Pack there. There were about a dozen people with spotting scopes at this location. Some had been watching the wolf den all day and indicated that earlier that morning several of the wolves had left the den, apparently on a hunting trip, however, there had been no activity since. We set up to watch with the group. Listening to the talk we learned a lot about wolf behavior and this pack in particular. About 7 pm some of the people noticed 4-6 black wolves leaving the den area. They quickly disappeared behind the hills Again; the distance was over 1 mile away. Shortly thereafter, two black wolves, accompanied by a Gray wolf that was described as the Alpha Female and the leader of the pack left the den area. Was able to get a shot of the trio but again at an extreme distance. While at this location we spotted a small group of Bison with several young “Red Dogs” swimming across Slough Creek. Made for a nice image. 

We also spotted a large Bull Bison standing alone on top of a hill, surrounded by smoke from nearby fires and the evening mist. 

As the sun was setting behind the mountains it made for an interesting shot. We returned to Cooke City arriving after 8 PM.

On Day 9 we started our search for Moose at 6 AM, looking carefully through the area from Cooke City to the entrance of the Park. We drove up and down side roads and searched the area several times without spotting any Moose. Reentering the Park we searched the area all the way to the Soda Butte Pull Off. Stopped there to photograph the Soda Butte Creek and nearby mountains as well as some cute Ground Squirrels. We spotted a lone Black Bear resting in some trees high up on a mountain side but well out of range. We drove the entire length of Lamar Valley without seeing anything significant. Observed the usual Bison herds and several Pronghorns but nothing else. Stopped back by the Floating Pond and shot a pair of Yellow-headed Blackbirds plus several others. Returned for another drive around Blacktail Plateau, again not seeing anything unusual. At the Petrified Tree Pull Off we did see a Black Bear and was able to get some very interesting photos of it searching for food and ripping down an old tree stump.

Day 10 found us leaving Cooke City and heading toward our final destination, West Yellowstone, Montana. Entering Lamar Valley and passing the Soda Butte and Hitching Post Pull Offs without seeing anything we spotted dozens of cars pulled off the road. We learned that a wolf or wolves had been spotted on the far side of the Lamar River. We parked and got out and began searching along with everyone else. Occasionally someone would say they saw the wolf but we did not. We did spot a pair of Bald Eagles in a tail tree but at some distance away. We carefully walked toward the pair of eagles until we were close enough to get a good photo. 

One of the pair flew off and never returned so we continued to photograph the other one. Leaving that area we got a “selfie” of Ronnie and I in front of a nice Bison herd. Got to take this one, Right? 

We also spotted a beautiful Coyote in the sagebrush. He “accidently” ran into part of the Bison herd and was quickly run off. Got several nice photo of him. We also captured several photos of several younger Bison Bulls clashing with each other. One took the other to the ground pushing its nose into the dirt. It appeared to gore it in the head.

Leaving Lamar Valley at 12:30 we stopped by the Upper Basin of Mammoth Hot Springs and took some photos of the Orange Spring Mound. Leaving there we headed south toward Madison still on the alert for Grizzly’s in the area of the Obsidian Cliffs. We drove the 3 mile loop around the Virginia Cascades getting some nice shots of waterfalls and cascades. 

We then stopped and shot Gibbon Falls, one of the more beautiful in the Park. We searched for a location called Duck Rock without finding it but did locate The Chocolate Pots, a huge rock with a natural bubbling mineral spring flowing out of it. We admired the locations where the Fire Hole River and Gibbon River come together to create the Madison River. We followed the Madison River west until arriving at the west entrance of Yellowstone NP and then arrived at West Yellowstone.

On Day 11 we arose very early and arrived at Yellowstone Falls at 5:30 AM, knowing that sunrise was to be at 6:02AM. This is the location of the iconic Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. We were able to get the sunrise shot we wanted and remained at the area until 7 AM. 

We left heading back toward Hayden Valley but planned to return to Yellowstone Falls by 8:45 in order to be ready to capture the Rainbow that forms at the base of the fall each day at about 9:30AM. In Hayden Valley we did not see any unusual wildlife but did shoot several really nice landscape shots. We returned to Yellowstone Falls as planned and were able to capture one of the photos that will be a highlight of the trip; the Rainbow that forms at the base of the falls.

After leaving Yellowstone Falls and heading back toward Norris near Terrace Springs we spotted a Mother Moose nursing a small calf. We were able to get a nice shot of this special pair. We returned to West Yellowstone to rest up as we planned to return in the late afternoon to photograph Old faithful. 

We left our motel in time to check out the Fire Hole River before heading out to get a spot to shoot Old Faithful. The Fire Hole River Canyon Drive is another location that offers opportunities to shoot waterfalls, cascades and rugged terrain. We arrived at the parking lot of Old faithful at 6:05, getting a great parking spot and then were able to get a front row seat to await the eruption of Old Faithful. Met some nice folks while waiting. Old faithful, true to its name began it eruption at 7PM. The eruption did not seem to last as long as usual nor go up as high as it normally does but it was a beautiful thing to observe. Heading back to West Yellowstone we spotted a herd of Elk, all females with small calves. They were crossing the Gibbon River and with the setting sun, made for a really nice shot. Just prior to leaving the Park we noticed a huge rock in the Madison with an interesting small tree growing out of it. We decided to check it out the next day when we had more light. We did photograph the setting sun as it dropped behind some mountains.

July 15, 2021, Day 12 and the last day of our trip to Yellowstone. The plan was to leave West Yellowstone and make it all the way to Rawlings, Wyoming, photographing wildlife and landscapes as we went along. We left West Yellowstone at 9:30AM and both felt a little tired from the trip but wished we had several more days to continue our search for the special animals we had so far missed; the Grizzlies, Bull Moose and Big Horn Sheep.

We revisited the Fire Hold Canyon Drive shooting waterfalls and cascades. 

Stopped and photographed the Kipler Cascades. A really spectacular location. Later learned we could have taken a trail to the bottom of the cascade and got a much better shot. Our last location to photograph in Yellowstone was the very awesome Moose Falls. It was one of the most beautiful of all. We also learned later of a path we could have taken that would have provided a better shot. I guess they will have to wait for the next trip.

We left Yellowstone Park, entered the Grand Teton NP and at Moran Junction headed east towards Dubois, Wyoming and on to Rawlings. On the way we did photograph an Osprey on a manmade nest and were fooled by a decoy Owl that we thought for sure was a Great Gray Owl. 

After we took over 12,800 images our trip of almost 5,000 mils comes to an end. It was a trip that exceeded our expectation in many ways but we still have a little empty feeling about not seeing several animals that we had hopes of spotting. The Teton and Yellowstone together are an awesome place to visit. Noting else compares to them. We can only hope that there will be one more time to visit them.